Not quite your mother’s pot roast… This version has the tender meat and robust gravy of childhood memories, but it is distinguished by a subtle accent of rosemary and orange zest and a creamy sauce made with whole-grain mustard. A puree of wintered-over root vegetables, such as celery root, rutabaga or parsnips, would make a perfect accompaniment for an early spring meal. For a leaner pot roast, choose bottom round or rump roast. Chuck roast is a bit more tender, but fattier.

• 3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced (4 cups)
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 2 teaspoons freshly grated orange zest
• 1 3-pound bottom round roast, rump roast or chuck roast, trimmed
• ¼ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• ½ cup dry red wine
• ½ cup reduced-sodium beef broth
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch, plus more as needed
• 1 tablespoon water, plus more as needed

Grainy Mustard Sauce

• ¼ cup low-fat mayonnaise
• ¼ cup low-fat plain yogurt
• 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
• Freshly ground pepper to taste

1. To prepare pot roast: Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a 4-quart or larger pressure cooker over medium-high heat. Add onions; cook, stirring often, until softened and starting to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic, rosemary and orange zest; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Remove from heat.
2. Sprinkle beef with ¼ teaspoon salt and pepper. Heat the remaining 1 teaspoon oil in a large skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium heat. Add the beef; cook, turning from time to time, until well browned on all sides, 5 to 8 minutes (see Tip). Transfer the beef to the pressure cooker, nestling it among the onions. Add wine to the skillet; bring to a boil, stirring to scrape up browned bits. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add broth and bring to a simmer. Pour the mixture over the beef in the pressure cooker.
3. Secure the pressure cooker lid. Bring to high pressure over high heat following the manufacturer’s directions. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting that maintains high pressure. Cook for 1½ hours if using bottom round or rump, 1 hour if using chuck.
4. Let the pressure release naturally. This will take 5 to 20 minutes. Check the roast: it should not show any resistance when pierced with a sharp knife. If it is not tender, secure the lid and return to high pressure. Cook 5 minutes, release the pressure naturally, then check again.
5. To prepare mustard sauce: Meanwhile, combine mayonnaise, yogurt, mustard and pepper in a small bowl.
6. Transfer the roast to a clean cutting board. Cover loosely with foil and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Skim fat from the liquid in the cooker. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Combine cornstarch and water in a small bowl; add to the liquid and cook, whisking, until the gravy thickens slightly, about 1 minute. (If you want it thicker, combine an additional 2 teaspoons cornstarch with 1 tablespoon water and stir into the simmering gravy until thickened.) Season to taste with salt and pepper. Slice the meat and serve with the gravy and the mustard sauce.