This homemade version of the insanely popular Thai hot chile-garlic sauce is thinner and fresher-tasting than store-bought. It needs a few days to ferment at room temperature, but it’s worth the wait.

Ingredients

• 1-1/4 lb. fresh hot red chiles, such as Fresnos, long red chiles, red Jalapeños, or red Serranos, washed and dried
• 4 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
• 1 ounce kosher salt
• 2 Tablespoons granulated sugar
• 1 Tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
• 1/2 cup distilled white vinegar

Preparation

1. Wearing gloves, trim the stem ends from the chiles and cut the flesh into large chunks (don’t remove the seeds or ribs).
2. Open the kitchen windows and/or turn on the exhaust fan. In a food processor, pulse the chiles, garlic, salt, and sugars to a loose, chunky paste, about 15 one-second pulses. Scrape the mixture into a glass bowl, cover loosely with plastic, and let sit at room temperature for 4 to 5 days.
3. Scrape the mixture into a 2-quart nonreactive saucepan. Stir in the vinegar and bring to a simmer, uncovered, over low heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture is very soft, 5 to 8 minutes.
4. Strain the mixture through a medium mesh sieve set over a glass bowl, pushing on the solids to extract all the liquid. (If you prefer a thicker sauce, use a large mesh sieve.) The sauce will keep, refrigerated in an airtight glass bottle or jar, for up to 4 months.